When a viewer asked Ron for help building a redwood fence for her preschool's front yard, Ron paid a house call — and turned it into a hands-on volunteer project with parents, teachers, and even a few kids pitching in. The result was a handsome six-foot redwood fence with a stepped design that follows the slope of the yard. Here's how it came together, step by step.
From the archives of the House Doctor
Step 1
Establish Your Fence Line
Start with a string line. Tie one end to the front face of an existing post (or a stake at your starting point), then run it all the way to your ending point. Where the string ends, drive a stake so its face just touches the string. This string line becomes your benchmark for keeping every post in the fence perfectly aligned.
Once the line is set, hook a line level onto the string to confirm its level along its full run before you mark any post locations.
Step 2
Mark Your Post Spacing
With the line established, measure and mark post spacing along the string. Six feet is a common spacing for a standard fence. Mark each interval directly on the string with a felt marker.
At each mark, tie a second string with a nail knotted to the end. The nail acts as a weight, creating a simple plumb bob that drops straight down to show you the exact center of each post hole. Drive a stake at that point to mark the hole location.
Step 3
Dig the Post Holes
A post hole digger makes quick work of digging narrow, straight-sided holes — something that's tough to do cleanly with a shovel. Aim for a hole about 24 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches in diameter for a standard fence post. Before setting the post, add about 6 inches of crushed rock to the bottom of the hole for drainage, which helps keep water away from the base of the post and prevents rot over time. If you're troubleshooting a fence post that's already failed from rot, our guide on fixing a sagging or sticking gate covers how to diagnose and replace a rotted post.
Step 4
Mix and Pour the Concrete
A single-batch concrete mixer makes this step easy for one or two people. Water goes in first; about a quart and a half per 60-pound bag, two portions for a 60-pound bag; followed by the pre-mixed concrete. Seal the lid, then roll the mixer back and forth for about 30 seconds, making sure it completes a full revolution with each pass.
Position the post in the hole so it lines up with your string, then pour in the concrete. Use a post level with two bubble vials to check that the post is plumb in both directions before the concrete sets. Finish by sloping the top of the concrete away from the post so water sheds away from the base instead of pooling and causing rot. If you're working with concrete elsewhere on your property, our guide to repairing a cracked concrete driveway has more tips on working with concrete mix.
Step 5
Attach the Rails
Once the concrete has set, install the top rail (also called a stringer) centered on the post and aligned with your string line. Double-check it with a level before fastening. Rust-proof, self-drilling deck screws work well here. Ron’s tip is to drive them in at an angle, toenail-style, through the rail and into the post to avoid splitting the wood. Repeat the process for a second, lower rail.
Step 6
Install the Fence Boards
For a classic redwood fence look, use rough-sawn redwood one-by-six boards attached with six-penny galvanized box nails; two nails at the top and two at the bottom of each board. If your design calls for a gap between boards (with a second layer of boards covering the seam from behind), cut a simple spacer block to the desired width. Using the same spacer for every board keeps your spacing uniform without measuring and marking each one individually.
Step 7
Add Trim and a Cap
For a finished look, add a fascia board, which is a one-by-six nailed along the top and bottom edges of the fence, flush and clamped in place before nailing for a clean line.
Step 8
Handling Sloped Ground
If your yard slopes, a fence built dead level can look like it's sinking into the ground. Instead, build the fence in sections, stepping each one up (in this case, about six inches) to follow the terrain, then dropping back down where you need visibility. Examples of this could be near a driveway or road. It takes a bit more planning, but the finished look is worth it.
Step 9
Project Complete!
With a solid layout, level post-setting, and evenly spaced boards, you can build a redwood fence that's both sturdy and good-looking — whether it's a small backyard project or, in this case, a community build for a local preschool.
