Did you know that most gate problems come down to a single culprit; a post that’s no longer standing straight? In this video, Ron visited Annie, whose backyard gate had begun overlapping the latch-side post by nearly an inch and a half at the top. The bottom still cleared, but the top jammed every time she tried to close it. That uneven gap told us everything we needed to know, which is that her hinge-side post had started to lean.
If your own gate is sticking, dragging, or refusing to latch, this will give you the confidence and knowhow to fix it the right way.
A Leaning Post
When a gate suddenly stops lining up, most homeowners assume the gate itself has warped. But in Annie’s case, the gate was still square. The hinge‑side post, however, was not. A quick check with a level confirmed the suspicion: the post was leaning toward the house by roughly the same amount as the gate was overlapping the latch post.
Soil movement, rot at the base, or improper installation are all factors that can all cause a post to shift. Annie’s soil had a high clay content, which expands when wet and contracts when dry. Over time, that movement can push a post out of alignment. In another video, Ron shows a hack on how to loosen hard clay soil.
Once we confirmed the post was the problem, the next step was to remove the gate and start dismantling the old structure.
Removing the Gate and Disassembling the Old Post
We took the gate off its hinges and began removing the rails and boards attached to the failing post. Because the gate boards were weathered to match the rest of the fence, we wanted to preserve as many as possible.
On the opposite side of the fence, the lower rail was still firmly attached. A hacksaw blade slipped between the rail and post allowed us to cut the nails cleanly without damaging the surrounding structure. Once the rails were free, the post itself was ready to come out.
That’s when Ron could really confirm that the real reason for the failure was the post, which had snapped off right at the top of the concrete footing. Whether it was rot or a knot in the wood, the break meant the post was beyond saving.
Extracting the Old Concrete Footing
Annie’s footing had mushroomed at the bottom, which meant it could wiggle but not lift straight out. After some determined prying and shoveling, the footing finally came free. With the hole cleared, we could prepare it for the new post.
Preparing the Hole
The bottom of the old post showed signs of rot, a common issue when water collects at the base. To prevent that from happening again, adding a few inches of ¾‑inch drainage rock to the bottom of the hole helps water to move away from the post instead of pooling around it. If you have leftover pebbles, save them for a mudroom hack you won’t want to miss.
Good drainage is one of the most overlooked parts of fence construction, but it dramatically extends the life of any wood post.
Setting the New Post
Before cutting your new post to height, we marked the exact point where the top rail would sit and carried that line around three sides of the post to ensure a perfectly square cut.
To keep the post plumb in both directions, we used a post level secured with a rubber band. A taut string stretched from the latch‑side post to the far end of the fence ensured the new post sat in the same plane as the rest of the structure. This alignment is crucial: even a perfectly vertical post will cause problems if it’s not in line with the fence.
Once the post was positioned correctly, we mixed fast‑setting fence concrete directly in the hole. Filling the hole halfway with water first allows the dry mix to absorb moisture quickly. As the concrete thickened, we tamped it to eliminate air pockets and shaped a slight mound at the surface so rainwater would shed away from the post.
Reattaching the Rails and Rebuilding the Gate
With the post solidly in place, we reattached the bottom rail using toenails and secured the top rail with galvanized nails designed for exterior use. Annie chose to replace one of the gate boards that had split earlier, giving the gate a cleaner, more uniform look.
Before installing the hinges, we test‑fit the gate to ensure proper clearance. A gap of about three‑eighths of an inch on each side is ideal—enough room for seasonal wood movement without leaving the gate feeling loose.
For the new hinges, we used heavy‑duty hardware better suited to the weight of the gate. A self‑centering drill bit made perfect pilot holes, and 2½‑inch lag screws provided a strong, long‑lasting connection.
Once everything was secured, Annie gave the gate its first test swing. It opened cleanly, closed without resistance, and latched perfectly—no sticking, no dragging, no overlap. A simple structural correction had restored the gate to full working order.
A leaning post may seem like a small issue, but left unaddressed, it can lead to sagging gates, broken hardware, and even damage to the surrounding fence. By diagnosing the problem correctly and rebuilding the post with proper alignment and drainage, Annie now has a gate that will serve her well for years.
