Ron Hazelton

How to Refinish a Porch Swing

Savers

Outdoor Furniture

HOUSE DOCTOR Transcript

HD020 “PORCH-SWING REFINISH” from episode 616

RON:

Heat and ultraviolet light can really take a toll on outdoor furniture like this. It leaves the wood looking dull, lifeless, and even chalky. So let's see what we can do to give some new life to this porch swing.

This swing has been sitting out under a tree for a while and we've got some sap spots right here. You can tell because they're kind of sticky. So before we do any refinishing, I want to get these off. To do that, I'm going to use a solvent, in this case lacquer thinner. Now acetone would also probably work well. Both of these shouldn't stain the wood and they're going to dry very quickly. They're also strong enough to soften up that sap, okay? I've got a little bit more than I need right there. We're just going to put this on some steel wool. This is number one steel wool. And the combination of that solvent and the abrasive action of this steel wool should remove that very quickly. There you go.

We've got rid of most of our sap. There's maybe a little bit of discoloration left. We'll take care of that later on in the refinishing process. Now if this swing had a coating on it, say varnish or polyurethane, and that coating was chipping or peeling off, we'd have to remove it entirely and we'd want to use some kind of chemical stripper like one of these to do that. But that's not the case here. This probably had originally a very thin oil finish on here. It's virtually gone now. It's been disintegrated by the effects of the sun. So we've almost got raw wood right here. So we'll want to use a little bit different refinishing process for this.

I'm going to treat this piece of furniture in somewhat the same way I might treat a deck. We're going to begin by giving it a good cleaning. And to do that, I'll be using this material right here. This is TSP or trisodium phosphate. You can find this in any paint or hardware store. I'm going to put this in hot water. That should be enough. And we're going to mix it up with a brush. All right. And I'm going to apply this with a good stiff scrub brush. The idea here is the agitation from the brush plus the chemical itself, the detergent itself, will remove any of the accumulated dirt on here.

I'm using a garden hose under high pressure now to rinse off that dirty trisodium phosphate water.

Now you can see how much brighter this wood looks just from having been cleaned. But keep in mind this is wet right now. And as it dries, it would become a little duller. Now this next step might be optional, but I'm going to try it here. It's called a wood brightening step. This material right here is called, if you go out to buy it, you'll see it in a package labeled Wood Bleach right here. But actually what it is is oxalic acid. It comes in crystalline form like this. And it's a form of bleach, but really it's a color restorer. And we're going to dissolve this once again in very hot water. And I'm going to put, oh gosh, I'm going to put about a little over half of this container in here. We mix this up fairly strong. And we're going to apply this the same way that we did the TSP. And I like to always start at the top, by the way, and then work my way down. If there are any drips or runs, you sort of take care of those as you work your way toward the bottom.

It's been about five or ten minutes since we put this on. I'm rinsing it off right now.

And you can tell what a dramatic difference this has made.

All right, now I'm going to let this dry thoroughly here in the sun. And then we'll come back and put on something to keep this looking in good shape.

Well, the sun did a real good job of drying everything out for us here. And I've been doing some sanding. Now one advantage of wetting wood and then sanding it is when wood gets wet, the fibers sort of stand up almost like whiskers. So when you do sand, you cut those whiskers off very cleanly and you get a very smooth surface. So if you want to do especially a nice sanding job, you can wet something before you sand it. Of course, that was just part of our process here. All right, this is 120 paper. As I'm sanding, I'm going always with the grain in this direction right here. Never cross grain because that would leave scratches. And we're just about ready now to start putting the finish on. Now this has come out a little bit lighter than I actually thought it would. So first of all, I want to see what this would look like with just a clear oil on it. This is some lacquer thinner here. You can use paint thinner. We're just going to put this on right down here. That will sort of simulate what clear oil would be like. See that? That will evaporate in just a moment here with the sun. That's still not going to be quite dark enough for me. So I'm going to apply a combination of oil and stain. And to do that, I want to take this back inside because I don't want to have the sun beating on this directly as we're putting that on.

As I mentioned earlier, we cleaned and prepared this the same way we would a deck.

As a matter of fact, I'm going to seal it the same way I would a deck by using a deck stain sealer. When you think about it, this is going to be exposed to the same sun, the same water and weather as the deck. So why not treat it the same way? Now this is essentially a linseed oil base here with a stain in it. It's a one-coat application. And I'm

going to start by brushing this on. You can spray this on. You can roll it on. If you do that, you still want to work it in with a brush because this is what actually forces the stain into the pores of the wood. So we'll start here. And I'm going to do two or three slats here. Again, working this in, letting the wood soak up as much of this as it can. Now the way this works is this soaks into the wood, into the pores, and eventually it will dry but it forms a very, very thin film unlike varnish. So that when it comes time to refinish this, all you've got to really do is give it a light sanding and re-coat it. There's nothing to chip or peel off. So there's our brush. Now let's come back with our rag. And here we just want to wipe off the excess stain, again forcing it into the wood, leaving us with a nice, smooth, consistent color.

This last step is perhaps optional but I really like it because if you do it, you'll end up with a finish that's probably better than the one that came on this originally. This is tongue oil. It's made from the tongue nut. And you can apply it with a soft cloth like this, just rub it thoroughly into the wood or what I like to do is just use my hand. This is where the term hand rub finish comes from. You're actually using your hand to rub the oil into the wood.

Now as far as maintenance goes, about every year and a half to two years, we'll want to give this a light sanding or steel wooling and then re-oil it. That's about all it will take.

So if you've got a piece of wooden furniture out in that backyard that you're not very happy with, well now you've got a great way to make it look a lot better.

From the archives of the House Doctor

Learn how to restore weathered outdoor wood furniture with these simple tips.

What beautiful memories surround a porch swing. For some, it is the place to unwind at the end of the day – for others it may be the backdrop to the first-day-of-school pictures, If your porch swing has seen better days, there are some easy tips to restore it instead of replacing it.

Why Outdoor Wood Furniture Deteriorates

Heat and ultraviolet light are the two biggest enemies of outdoor wood furniture. Over time, UV exposure breaks down the finish, leaving wood looking dull, lifeless, and chalky. Once the original finish is gone, the bare wood begins to absorb moisture and dirt, accelerating the deterioration. The good news: most weathered porch swings and outdoor furniture can be fully restored with the right prep work and finishing products.

What You'll Need

Lacquer thinner or acetone (for sap removal)
#1 steel wool
TSP (trisodium phosphate) — available at any paint or hardware store
Oxalic acid (sold as "Wood Bleach" or wood brightener)
120-grit sandpaper
Deck stain sealer (linseed oil-based with stain)
Tung oil
Stiff scrub brush
Garden hose with high-pressure nozzle
Soft rags

Step 1

Remove Sap and Sticky Spots

If your swing has been sitting under a tree, chances are you've got sap spots. You can identify them by touch — they'll feel sticky. To remove sap, apply lacquer thinner or acetone to a piece of #1 steel wool and scrub the affected areas. The solvent softens the sap while the steel wool provides the abrasion to lift it off. Both products dry quickly and won't stain the wood.

Don't worry if a slight discoloration remains — the subsequent steps will take care of that.

If your swing has a peeling or chipping varnish or polyurethane finish, you'll need to strip it entirely using a chemical stripper before proceeding. A thin, weathered oil finish like the one covered here can be treated differently.

Step 2

Deep Clean with TSP (Trisodium Phosphate)

TSP is one of the most effective cleaning agents for weathered outdoor wood. Mix it into hot water and apply it generously using a stiff scrub brush. The combination of mechanical agitation and the detergent action of TSP will remove accumulated grime and oxidized wood fibers.

Once you've scrubbed the entire surface, rinse thoroughly with a garden hose on high pressure. You'll immediately notice the wood looks significantly brighter — though keep in mind it will dull slightly as it dries.

Step 3

Brighten the Wood with Oxalic Acid

This step is optional but highly recommended. Oxalic acid — sold at hardware stores as "Wood Bleach" — is a color restorer, not a harsh bleach. It comes in crystalline form and dissolves in hot water. Mix it strong, apply it the same way you did the TSP (starting at the top and working down to manage drips), and let it sit for five to ten minutes.

When you rinse it off, the difference is dramatic. The wood takes on a much more even, natural tone — closer to how it looked when it was new.

Step 4

Let It Dry, Then Sand

Let the wood dry completely in the sun before sanding. Here's a useful trick: wetting wood causes the wood fibers to stand up like tiny whiskers. Once dry, sanding cuts those raised fibers off cleanly, resulting in an exceptionally smooth surface. Use 120-grit sandpaper and always sand with the grain — never across it, as cross-grain sanding leaves scratches that will show through the finish.

Step 5

Test the Color with a Solvent

Before committing to a finish, do a quick preview: apply a small amount of lacquer thinner or paint thinner to the bare wood. This simulates what the wood will look like with a clear oil finish. It will evaporate quickly, so you can assess the color in real time. If the natural color looks good, go with a clear penetrating oil. If it needs more warmth or depth, choose a deck stain sealer with color added.

Step 6

Apply a Deck Stain Sealer

Here's a smart approach that professional restorers use: treat your porch swing the same way you'd treat a deck. It's exposed to the same sun, rain, and weather — so use the same product. A linseed oil-based deck stain sealer penetrates deeply into the wood, soaks into the pores, and forms a very thin protective film rather than a surface coating like varnish.

Apply it with a brush, working it into the wood grain. Do a few slats at a time, letting the wood absorb as much product as it can. Then follow with a clean rag to wipe off the excess and ensure an even, consistent color. Because this type of finish doesn't form a thick film, there's nothing to chip or peel — making future maintenance much simpler.

Step 7

Finish with Tung Oil (Optional but Worth It)

This final step is what separates a good refinishing job from a great one. Tung oil — derived from the tung nut — is applied by hand with a soft cloth, rubbed thoroughly into the wood surface. This is the origin of the term "hand-rubbed finish." The oil fills any remaining surface pores, deepens the color, and adds a natural luster that enhances the grain.

Step 8

Maintenance Going Forward

One of the biggest advantages of a penetrating oil finish over film-forming finishes like varnish is how easy it is to maintain. Every year and a half to two years, give the swing a light sanding or steel wooling and apply a fresh coat of oil. That's it. No stripping, no peeling, no major prep work.

Refinishing a porch swing is an approachable weekend project that can add years of life to a piece of furniture you might otherwise toss. Whether your swing has sap spots, a weathered gray finish, or just looks tired, these techniques will bring it back to life.